Roots of Beauty: The History and Evolution of Ukrainian Jewelry

Have you ever wondered when people first became enchanted by charms and jewelry? While the exact moment isn’t recorded, one thing is clear: aesthetics have always played a role! In Ukraine, all these pendants, necklaces, bracelets, and rings are affectionately called "prykrasas" or "adornments"—and for good reason.

Glass, in particular, became wildly popular as a material for beads. Even in the era of Kyivan Rus, glass beads were beloved! Many of us know that these beads came from far-off places like Syria and Byzantium. By the 10th century, Ukrainian society had an international glass "supply line," which included gilded and silvered beads.

At the close of the 10th century, a glass production boom began in Kyiv, likely due to collaborative efforts between local and Greek craftsmen. These beads weren’t just worn; our ancestors used them to decorate church textiles, blending beauty with spiritual significance.

To truly appreciate Ukrainian national attire, we have to look back to the 14th–18th centuries, when our ancestors—mainly peasants and Cossacks—developed a distinctive style. Whether on holidays or weekdays, traditional clothing was rarely seen without jewelry. The number of necklaces a woman wore often indicated her wealth.

Ukrainian women took pride in owning a diverse collection of jewelry, a kind of "treasure" accumulated over generations and passed down as family heirlooms. In fact, a woman’s jewelry set could cost more than a house or a pair of oxen. Many of these adornments were bought at local fairs, where artisans sold their pieces, though some jewelry was imported.

At the end of the 19th century, Ukrainian women decided their jewelry could use a bit more sparkle, and thus, the "blown glass bead" was born! Imagine ornaments as glittering as Christmas baubles, so bright they practically dazzled anyone who looked in a mirror. Nicknamed "svitlyachky" or "fireflies," these beads quickly gained popularity. Who wouldn’t want to make a striking impression?

The famous Venetian coral beads, or "pisani patsyorky," deserve their own mention! These exquisite pieces were as heavy as they were valuable. Handmade with intricate designs, they featured gold accents and colorful enamels, making them true masterpieces. Imagine round beads the size of peas, painted in vibrant hues, radiating enough shine to blind a queen!

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, beaded jewelry surged in popularity, sparking a genuine "bead boom." Peasant women began adorning not only themselves but also their clothing. Beaded embroidery spread across Ukraine and even reached neighboring Poland and Slovakia. In Bukovyna, this trend became a major hit, with women decorating everything from headdresses to leather shoes!

During this period, Ukrainian peasant communities fully developed the most iconic traditional jewelry: necklaces and chest pieces like namysto, salba, dukach, patsyorky, dukaty, zgarada, herdan, silyanka, and many others. Let’s not forget the earrings that added a distinctive flair to any look!

As eras shifted from the late 19th to the mid-20th century, the variety of beadwork exploded. In the 20th century, with the growing popularity of beaded jewelry, creating these pieces became a profitable business.

During World War I, workshops in Halychyna (Galicia) were organized to help refugees create beaded masterpieces and other artisanal goods. In the 1950s–60s, artisans crafted girdles, handbags, and pouches with beadwork that inspired admiration far and wide.

Unfortunately, since the middle of the 20th century, the folk art of beadwork has fallen into crisis due to industrialization. But who knows, maybe the bead culture will once again experience a renaissance and we can return to those bright, shiny ornaments that mark our identity!

Follow the link «Heritage Collection» to explore unique, heritage-inspired pieces and experience the spirit of the past in a modern style!